As most climbers know, Norway is full of rock and this summer we wanted to experience it ourselves. Not only have we visited the famous Flatanger cave located far north towards the polar circle, we also got to see a bunch of other places with varying type of granite and climbing style.
We started driving through Sweden with the first stop in Viks kile, a lovely crag which felt familiar to the granite/gneiss mixture at home in the Bavarian Forest.
Next one was Hauktjern with that typical Norwegian style of landscape nearby.
On our way to Trondheim, trying not to use the toll roads, we spent 4 days in Jarberget. Rather unknown crag but very rich on high quality and sustaind routes (up to 40m!!). The locals were really kind and glad having some international people there. Michi Bücker also did some First Ascents there. It appears that whole place is built out of different sectors of Zillertal.
Finally arrived in Flatanger everyone was finding himself projects for the first day and routes to dream of for the weeks to follow. The ones to remember are the ones we tried together with exchanging important beta (even belaying turned to be interesting), celebrating good gos and sends.
During 5 weeks in Flatanger were staying at the Climb Flatanger campsite right below the cave. The rockquality is outstanding and with nothing to compare I know. There is an unusual amount of big holds and the granite is very fine. On some routes you are mostly grabbing slopers, pinches and jugs. The length of the routes requires good stamina, but its more cruxy than you expect. In between bouldery sequences you find yourself taking a few breaths on monster jugs or squeezing into something. Going the 20 minutes up and down turned into daily routine. As well as collective grill sessions with freshly caught fish in mushroom sauce and monopoly rounds deeply into the night.
When it was rainy we kept waiting, inside the spacious barn, for just one small weather window which allowed a dry hike up to the cave.
In conclusion this journey was a good opportunity to live our dedication to the fullest. There weren’t really days when you couldn’t go climbing, I even dare to say that the sun was our biggest enemy in terms of lost climbing hours. I also can say that Norway isnt’t that expensive as many people say if you just keep it simple (bring your beer from home or buy Seidel Pils)
Routes:
MB in Waliserne kommer og kommer 8b [00:50]
Matthias Eisenmann in The Doorkeeper 8b [02:41]
Michi Mühlbauer in Flaggermusmannen 8a [05:56]
Carla Bambauer in Ingwe 7a [08:41]
Thomas Heibel in Andre hoyre 7c [10:18]
Michi Eisenmann in Nordic Flower 8b [11:58]
Korbi Fischer in Hingsten 8a [15:50]
Jonas Häring in 30 ariga kriget 7c [16:19]
Jonas Häring in Panorama 8b [17:31]
Leon Schöppl in Koskräck 7b [18:32]
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