BURC AKYOL COLL 05 SUMMER, GÜLISTAN
БУРДЖ АКЫЙОЛ КОЛЛ 05 ЛЕТО, ГЮЛИСТАН
1 окт. 2025 г.
“Les enfants d’Adam font partie d’un corps
Ils sont créés tous d’une même essence
Si une peine arrive à un membre du corps
Les autres aussi, perdent leur aisance
Si, pour la peine des autres, tu n’as pas de souffrance
Tu ne mériteras pas d’être dans ce corps.”
Gülistan, Sadi
« On a toujours l’air con quand on parle de fleur »
A dear friend
In the oriental world, the rose (Gül) is a symbol of resistance and rebellion.
Incidentally, Gülistan was also the name of Iran. It is also a very important Kurdish name. We say, “from the mud a rose” and we hear a message of hope. Gülistan means a land of roses, an empire of roses as put by the poet Sadi, an empire of hope. The same book recounts our human condition as a whole and how we can choose to be a member of that body or a cut-off limb when it comes to our relation to the other. Politics and poetry.
My first “other” were gypsies when I was a child, les gens du voyage, other kids who suddenly appeared in my classroom one day because they were passing through our small town. French law says schools must welcome them at every stop. I still remember the art class, all of us spray-painting leaves in gold. I remember talking about my day and those kids to my parents in the evening, and them helping me realise they were the same people as the Roman in my Turkish summers, the Roman of the Sulukule neighbourhood in Istanbul. I loved watching their dances and singing, the strident colours of their unruly matching of pieces that seemed to come from just anybody’s wardrobe, with beautifully tailored jackets, cardigans tied around their hips, and full skirts. These colours felt so humble yet sophisticated; they were honest and full of voice. They had something about them that felt “more”, like a geste. I also fantasised the gypsy kids had mothers and sisters who looked like the mystifying black figure of a flamenco dancer on the shiny blue packet of my dad’s Gitanes cigarettes.
But this is not a collection about gypsies or flowers—there is no topping John Galliano’s 2003 Haute Couture for Dior in that area, and I grew up with that show as an inspiration in exuberance and actor- ship. The same actor-ship I was lucky to witness while working there in his creative briefs. I found the same performance-power later in another mentor, Esteban Cortázar, whose Latin references lulled me galore for the five years we worked together. My homage to them is in my everyday perseverance and my faith in growing as a creative with exacting practice and execution.
No, this collection is the cohabitation in one of fear, search for beauty, space and generosity for others, acceptance, sex, independence, pride and passion. Qualities embodied by the freest of our kind, giving them a dignity I envy.
Passion is integrity and resistance, I repeat, there is dignity in that. Complexity and layering are treasures when all around us flattens and grows poorer. We look for meaning, and true design has meaning. I think of clothes as a tool for seduction first, a dialogue piece second, but most of all as cherished items to be kept. I never believed in gendering or outdating collections. Seasonality doesn’t make sense to me, and as I am showing you this collection, my latest has just been delivered to our stores. Some of these pre- loved and staple pieces are shown in our collection today, restyled in a hand-in-hand endeavour with eBay Endless Runway to re-parameter our view of pieces from past collections and engage in a global mission of circularity. The love and dignity those pieces deserve is an industry priority we should all be addressing somehow. If you love what you do, you do it well and you do it forever.
To us all,
Burç
SOUTENU PAR
MINISTÈRE DE LA CULTURE
@culture_gouv
OEUVRE
LES MÉTAMÈTRES, EVARISTE RICHER
SPECIAL THANKS TO
ANDAM PRIZE
SUPPORTED BY
EBAY ENDLESS RUNWAY
ORIGINAL MUSIC BY
ÆSOFL @aesoflmusic
VIDEO BALEINE SOUS CACHALOT
DIRECTOR ANTHONY GOUJJANE
STYLING LAETITIA LEPORCQ
STYLING ASSISTANTS ELISA KHAYAT,
MARTINA DOTTI, ALISA NIKOLENKO,
GIULIA BASILE
MAKE UP LAUREN BOS AT ARTLIST PARIS
WITH CAMILLE LAM, SALMA OUBAAQA,
JUSTINE SIRABELLA, SHIN FENESTRE, JANETTE PETERS,
HIRONO SAKAMOTO, SIGRID LARSSON,
SHUMARI TAKABAYASHI, KANA MUROKITA
HAIR GILLES DEGIVRY AT ARTLIST PARIS
WITH ANDREA REISS, VINCENT ZIMBERLIN,
JOY BENONI-TALI, HAWA DRAME, REBECCA VILSAINT,
GIANNA POULLOU. HAKAH CHIHARU SUGANO.
LUCILE BERTRAND, ELISA PIRAS
CASTING SUUN CONSULTING
LEILA AZIZI ASSISTED BY JON GASHI
PRODUCTION TWOTWENTY PRODUCTION
LIGHTS OLIVIER BOISSIERE AT MAGNUM
SET DESIGN THOMAS VILACA
PRESS KARLA OTTO
BURC AKYOL