David Koma _ Autumn-Winter 2023 Runway Show / Подиумный показ Осень-Зима 2023

David Koma _ Autumn-Winter 2023 Runway Show / Подиумный показ Осень-Зима 2023 23 февр. 2023 г. Glamour is a sensory stimulant: an enigmatic feeling founded in timeless atmospheres and images that draw us in with seductive force. In the contemporary arena of fashion and entertainment where self expression is eradicating the conventions of the old world, classic representations of glamour continue to prevail: the eternal impact of a red lip, a glossy nail, a cut glass heel, or a satin lapel. For Fall Winter 2023, David Koma stages a study of the elements and iconography characteristic of twentieth century glamour. Embodied by Marlene Dietrich whose radical dress sense interwove the feminine and masculine symbols of desire the collection suspends itself between the grammar of two revolutionising eras: the icon’s 1930s heyday and the 1960s continuously present in the work of David Koma. Sense beguiling colours instinctively connected to glamour paint the collection: glossy lipstick red, regal ultraviolet, alluring lilac and lavender, and electrifying tulip yellow. Identifying dress codes and silhouettes that continue to resonate in our glamorous conscious, an interaction between the traditional evening wardrobes of women and men unfolds. The tuxedo - a Marlene Dietrich signature is magnified to oversized proportions or slimmed down to fitted longline manifestations. In the process, the traditional smoking is sensualised through post-modern ideas of seductiveness: the hemlines of jackets are shortened while trousers appear in the glamourous texture of patent leather or as thigh high boots. Three dimensional representations of the same study abound in bouncing plume trims, effervescent ruffles, evening stoles interpreted in Mongolian lamb, and chainmail tops adorned with hand cut leather flowers glossed as if dipped in red nail varnish. Graphics and gestures associated with glamour embed the collection. The presence of the smoking jacket inspires a research into the forgotten history of cigarettes, which, in the late 1920s became known as “torches of freedom” to the suffragette movement, who objected to the vulgarisation of female smokers. The narrative inspires a collaboration with the jeweller Emily Frances Barrett who has previously worked with David Koma who encapsulates a modern day smoker’s “last cigarette” into resin pendants as a memory of an old fashioned symbol of glamour loaded with historical context. Nods to cigarettes likewise appear in adornments on garments and in the motifs of repurposed vintage motorcycle jackets. Shoes materialise in David Koma’s signature metal heeled stilettos and in thigh high patent leather boots with transparent cowboy heels. Show Credits: Styling: Marc Goehring Casting: Svea Greichgauer Set Design: Tom Schneider Music: Mode F by Alexander Maxwell, Laurent Ballot and Nano De Clausel Hair: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY Session Team using label.m Professional Haircare Make up: Patrick Glatthaar Nails: Marian Newman Production: Bacchus Studio Videography: ANCC Studio Jewellery: Emily Frances Barrett Hosiery: Falke PR: Purple, Reference Studios Models: Achan Biong, Adit Priscilla, Alesya Kaf, Angair Biong, Anyiel Majok, Aviana Mcclish, Bibi Abdulkadir, Bing Bing Liu, Caren Jepkemei, Chai Maximus, Christie Munezero, Dohyun Kim, Duda Cavalcante, Eliza Rutson Pang, Fleur Beijer, Hannah Motler, Iman Kaumann, Issa Lish, Jan Baiboon, Kaila Wyatt, Kanta, Kateryna Lashko, Kendall Miller, Kerolyn Soares, Koujayn Wiew, Lena Werner, Lola Varley, Lulu Roehr, Madelyn Whitley, Maike Inga, Malaika Holmen, Malika El Maslouhi, Margo Whitley, Mathilda Gvarliani, Michelle Laff, Natalia Montero, Nina Marker, Raquel Brito, Rebeca Bertoldo, Sanne De Vries, Sarah Ferguson, Snezana Gasic, Sophie Martynova, Tami Williams, Teddy Quinlivan, Tosin Olajire ​ About David Koma: David Koma is a London-based fashion designer who has become synonymous with the ultra body contouring silhouette, creating sculptural statement dresses inspired by the feminine form. Alongside the cocktail dresses that propelled the designer onto the international stage, David Koma offering has expanded to include full range of options from precise daywear separates to beautifully tailored outerwear and showstopping red carpet gowns. Born in Tbilisi, Georgia, David Koma discovered his penchant for dress design at the young age of eight. David studied Fine Art in St Petersburg, showing his first collection at the age of 15. In 2003 David moved to London to take up a place at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, graduating with a distinction in MA Fashion in April 2009 under the mentorship of the late Professor Louise Wilson, OBE. Straight after graduation David Koma launched his eponymous ready-to-wear brand and has been a participant of London Fashion Week ever since.