Test your speakers and headphones for common problems. This is an extended and expanded version of the Fast Audio Test
*KEEP VOLUME LOW*
Audio signals (whether test signals or music) can cause hearing loss or speaker/amplifier damage even if you cannot hear them! NEVER troubleshoot while wearing headphones.
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0:00 Channel Identification
0:04 Channel Levels
0:13 Channel Matching (Bass, Mid, Treble)
0:31 Phantom Center Stability
1:11 Stereo Width
1:51 Polarity Alignment (Bass, Mid, Treble)
2:09 Continuous Sine Sweep
3:20 Stepped Sine Sweep
4:26 Bass Sweep Rise & Fall
4:35 Room Echoes
4:44 Compressor/Limiter Detection
4:55 Unit Impulse
This can help detect and troubleshoot a wide range of audio problems: missing channel, swapped L/R wiring, mono summing, channel level offset, speaker sensitivity offset, frequency response offset, EQ offset, audio signal or acoustic imbalances, inverted polarity in signal, inverted transducer wiring, frequency response deviations and limits, buzz & rattles, speaker cabinet air leaks and port noise, transducer damage, DAC aliasing, room modes, bass crossover issues, flutter echos or ringing, echo/reverb processing, compressor/limiter processing, spatializer processing, L/R time domain offset, and more!
// Content
- Channel Identification Test uses “Counting From 1 to 20“ by EnjoyPA @ under Public Domain, CC0 (Creative Commons 0)
- Room Echoes Test uses ““ by Anton @ under CC by 3.0 ()
- Other test signals are created by Outlier Studios
Post your questions/comments below. For consulting inquiries in audio/acoustics, contact me at:
// FAQ
- Why don’t I hear the inverted sound on my cellphone speaker?
Mobile devices often have a single speaker on board, and sum L & R audio signals before the speaker output. Therefore during the Inverted signal test, you would hear absolutely zero signal output. This is by design, and not something to be concerned about.
- I hear buzz during the test. Is this ok?
Lots of reasons you could be hearing buzz - could be the speaker driver, the way it’s attached to the enclosure, anything in the enclosure or surrounding the speaker, the amplifier, etc. I would first identify the source and see if you can eliminate it - brace things down if you can, shake the enclosure, use rubber spacers etc. It could turn out that the speaker driver itself is damaged, in which case you probably need to replace that particular driver if removable, or the whole speaker if not.
A buzz during the test means it’ll probably buzz during music playback, but may not be as noticeable. The sound won’t be as clean as it could be, but a slight buzz probably doesn’t mean the speaker is getting damaged.
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